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Samsung PS63C7705 (PN63C8000) test – part 2
This is a follow up to this post: Samsung PS63C7705 (PN63C8000) review and settings.
It’s now been two weeks since I received the Samsung PS63C7705 and I’ve received a lot of feedback (from both comments and different forums). I’ll try to answer some of the questions in this post and if you have any questions or things you want me to test just write a comment or an email.
I pointed out in the previous post that the screen has some line bleeding – after 14 days of use I hardly notice it and it’s a non-issue for normal tv/movie use.
Wall mounting
I received a few requests for pictures of the back of the TV.
The TV can be wall mounted with a VESA600x400 compatible wall mount. The mounting holes are 27 cm from both the bottom and top of the TV (centered – both horizontally and vertically). You have to use some spacers (about 1 cm deep) that comes with the TV (also when using Samsungs own slim mount kit). The power cord is only 1.5 meters long, fixed and can’t be removed (it’s fitted to the TV with a proprietary plug, so forget about changing it).
Plasma buzz
The Samsung still suffers from some buzzing noise issues. It’s not bad and you can’t hear it when the volume is at a normal level. But I wanted to measure how loud it actually was, so I tried using my sound meter (which I normally use for setting up surround sound levels). The meter goes down to 30db (+/- 0.5db), but it’s probably not precise enough to be used for anything really scientific, but the meter did pick up the noise from the screen (repeated the test 5 times and the meter showed the same values each time).
| Measure | Sound level (db) |
| Room with screen turned off | 34.0 db |
| Screen on at a distance of 1 meter | 34.8 db |
| Screen on at a distance of 3 meters (normal viewing position) | 34.3 db |
Calibration and settings
This time I’ll also go through each step of the calibration. As I knew the screen from before I did things a little different this time.
Brightness

Setting the brightness correctly gives you the best blacks without any black chrush or raised brighness/black level. To do this I loaded up the brightness test pattern and adjusted the brightness so that only 17 and aboves blinks (hard to see on the image). The setting of 51 seems to be the optimal value (no matter what contrast, gamma or cell light is set at).
Contrast
Since I was aiming for a white level of 30 fL I loaded up a 100IRE window and adjusted the contrast to 81 which gives a white level of 30.4 fL / 104.2 cdm2.
Gamma
As the Samsung provides gamma controls it was pretty easy just trying out a few values and making some test measurements. With a gamma of 0 (standard) it gives us the following gamma of 2.43:

Setting it at gamma 2 gives us a almost perfect gamma of 2.20. (Setting gamma at 1 gives us something about 2.31).

Cell Light
Samsung has an option for setting the Cell light. This only affects the white level (not the black level) and the gamma curve. I’ve tried different settings for Cell Light came to the same conclusion as two weeks ago. Only a setting of 17 gives a “flat” gamma curve.
Here a few measurements of the different Cell Light levels (contrast adjusted each time to 30 fL).
Cell Light at 16:

Cell Light at 17:

Cell Light at 18:

Adjusting the white balance I was able to get this (probably could have gotten it closer if I had the time), but from 10IRE we are below 2 which should be good enough.

Adjusting the colour, tint and cms I was able to get this (only the red y value a little bit of, but I was unable to remove the green).

Settings used
Firmware: 1016.
Picture Settings
Mode: Movie
Cell Light: 17
Contrast: 81
Brightness: 51
Sharpness: 10
Colour: 47
Tint: 50/50
Advanced Settings
Black Tone: Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Gamma: +2
Expert pattern: off
RGB Only mode: off
Colour Space: Custom
- R 50 0 0
- G 28 50 0
- B 7 0 50
- Y 45 50 0
- C 34 50 50
- M 50 0 61
White Balance: RO-25 GO-23 BO-24 RG-18 GG-24 BG-25
10p White Balance: (Interval: R G B)
- 1: -1 0 -2
- 2: 0 -1 -1
- 3: 1 0 0
- 4: 0 -1 0
- 5: 1 0 0
- 6: 0 0 0
- 7: 0 0 0
- 8: 0 -2 0
- 9: -2 -2 0
-10: 0 0 0
Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enhancement: 0
Picture Options
Colour Tone: Warm2
Size: Screen Fit
Digital Noise Filter: Off
MPEG Noise Filter: Off
HDMI Black Level: Low (16-235 video levels) or greyed out if using YCbCr signal.
Motion Judder Canceller: Off
Picture quality
Over the last two weeks I believe that the picture quality has become a lot better. I’ve also seen a few reviews of the screen now which mentions that it has a picture quality better than the Panasonic VT20/25 which I’m really happy to hear (If Panasonic was able to deliver the 65VT20 a few weeks ago I would have bought that instead as there was no reviews of the Samsung back then).
Check here for a comparrasion of the Samsung and Panasonic: 3D TV Review Shootout 2010 Samsung Vs. Panasonic.
And here is another review of the Samsung: Samsung PN50C8000 Review – 3D Plasma TV
Black level
I don’t have a meter that can measure black levels precisely at such low levels and I’ve seen a lot of people on forums doubting the 0.02 cdm2 that I measured a few weeks ago. All I can say is that when the C7705 is placed next to my old screen (which is known to have a calibrated black level of 0.05 cdm2) the C7705 is darker, so I do believe that 0.02 cdm2 is close to being correct. As the i1pro doesn’t go down at these low values the only meters I had around was a i1 display 2 and a Spyder which both should be stable (at measuring luminance) down to 0.02 cdm2. They both reported the same values when measuring the black level on the Samsung C7705 – 0.02 cdm2 (the spyder peaked at 0.03 cdm2, but stayed at 0.02 cdm2 most of the time).
So when comparing to other screens this places the Samsung a bit above both the Pioneer Kuro and Panasonic VT20.
| Plasma s creen | cd/m2 | fL |
| Samsung PS63C7705 | 0.02 – 0.03 | 0.006 – 0.009 |
| Panasonic 50VT20* | 0.009 (0.012 after first MLL rise) | 0.003 (0.004 after first MLL rise) |
| Pioneer 5090* | 0.003 | 0.0008 |
*) sources hdtvtest.co.uk and avforums.com.
I’ve noticed that the plasmatvbuyingguide.com review measured the C8000 at 0.06 cdm2, but they also have the brightness set up quite high at 57 (making 0IRE brighter than it should be. A brightness value of 57 would make video level 12 become black where it should be level 16). It’s clearly visible in a dark room that a value of 57 is brighter than what the display is capable of.
We’ll have to wait for a hdtvtest og avforums test for a true measurement of the black level (as they have the meters to measure it).
However – I watch a lot of TV in a completely dark room – and it’s black enough for that. And there are more important things than black level
Update about the black level: Samsung C7705 plasma black level at 50Hz vs. 60Hz.
| Print article | This entry was posted by Dennis Thomsen on 2010/08/08 at 23:55, and is filed under Audio/Video. Follow any responses to this post through RSS 2.0. You can leave a response or trackback from your own site. |
- Samsung PS63C7705 (PN63C8000) review and settings
- AVforum.no – Samsung 2010 plasma modeller
- [Thread Ufficiale] New Plasma Samsung PS/C6000/7000 – Page 34 – Il Forum ufficiale di Multiplayer.it, con discussioni, sondaggi e le ultime informazioni
- AVforum.no – Samsung 2010 plasma modeller
- AVforum.no – LED vs Plasma – Mine erfaringer
- AVforum.no – Samsung 7 serie plasma instillinger/kalibrering








about 1 year ago
Thanks Dennis! Looking forward to getting the TV and will probably use your settings
about 1 year ago
Finally got the TV with firmware 1016 installed. I inputted all your settings except Sharpness which I set to zero as I suppose this means no sharpening of the image at all or is 10 the magical neutral value and 0 is softer?
Also your brightness of 51 seems way too low. I have to turn it up to 70 or 75 or else image is very dark. Is it possible you write a wrong value here? This might be down to a problem in XBMC which I use as Media Center. I did not compare to All Share yet to see if it was more normal at 51.
about 1 year ago
I’m pretty sure about the brightness setting.
Optimally it should probably be between 48 and 57 depending on your contrast level.
You could try loading up one of the calibration dvd’s and use the brightness pattern. If you have connected a Media Center be sure to use RGB video levels and set the HDMI Black Level to Low if using my settings. Or use RGB pc levels with HDMI Black Level set to Normal.
about 1 year ago
Yeah, it might be needed to fiddle with in nVidia driver (ION) since it’s not possible in XBMC (dxv2). Settings was identical to what you have written here. I’m sure it’s a Windows/XBMC problem since All Share didn’t have this problem and looked great
about 1 year ago
Dennis hope you get this , keep on looking for your final settings after 200 hrs. or is this it ? by the way great settings but a question for you – why are the usa settings so different ?
about 1 year ago
The settings here are made after about 200 hours. I’ll probably make some new measurements after a few months, but after the first 200 hours it’s normally considered “safe” to do a calibration as the panel will have settled in.
What do you mean by the USA settings being different? There will always be differences in peoples calibrations as different equipment is being used and the fact that you can get almost the same results by different settings.
Also the 50″ and 58″ models seems quite different than the 63″ regarding black level and retention (the 63″ having the best black level and no retention).
about 1 year ago
Tried to compare with All Share and it does seem like my XBMC on Windows is messed up (desktop looks normal and not dark).
Will try with XBMC Live when time permits to see if that works
about 1 year ago
Dude! I want to buy you a beer! Where is your donation button? GREAT JOB!
about 1 year ago
everyone ! connected this samsung to the same feed with my old pioneer 5090.both plasmas side by side with sky tv – using hdmi splitter.
well dont be afraid to buy one of these ! amazing saying this is 13 inches bigger. on par or maybe better.
about 1 year ago
Thank you Dennis for these articles. I was just wondering, did you do any special run in for your television? Or did you just use it in normal every day use for 200 hours with the settings you posted on the first article?
about 1 year ago
200 hours with normal tv viewing (without any bright logo’s and black borders).
about 1 year ago
Thankyou for the settings.
About time someone put forward settings for the Eu and
Oceania model (which use same FW 1016)
Don’t like the look of Warm2 prefer Warm1 looks better to my eyes.
about 1 year ago
Warm2 should be the correct setting on most sets. If you’re used to dynamic or standard mode you should give it a week or two and you’ll get used to it…
about 1 year ago
Hi Dennis,
Thank you for such a detailed review of your TV. I was wondering if you have tested it for any RFI and EMF?
Reason I ask is that I’m on my second TV, having replaced the first one because of the RFI produced – not to mention it screws with my infrared receiver for HTPC.
I too love the picture quality, and the smoothness of the 3D is something else.
It just troubles me that it has seems to have such a wide EM field.
Thanks.
about 1 year ago
I haven’t got any equipement to measure EMF. What kind of problems are you having?
IR noise can be an issue, but this seems to a problem with most plasma’s anyway. My IR repeater picks up the noise, but it’s no problem as my Logitech One is powerful/bright enough.
about 1 year ago
Thanks for the reply. I moved my receiver about 3.5m away, and while it still gets “pinged”, the Logitech One isn’t affected, but the keyboard can be a bit of a pain to use.
Re RFI,, seems to be a big EM field – eg, AM radio signal is totally destroyed withing about 1.5 metres – and still very prominent at 4 metres.
Samsung say its a problem, but I was just curious if anyone has been able to measure the mG output of the TV.
I may still return (the 2nd one) yet, but the picture is just so stunning
about 1 year ago
I have used Warm 2 and loks great. Saw the Pana 65vt20 today. Very dissapointed for Pal FTA @50hz. in Australia looks terrible. These sets have an
average deinterlacer and scaler. Glad I bought the Samsung instead.
about 1 year ago
Hello Dennis,
Many thanks for your insightful review. I live in the UK and it really helped me make my decision to purchase the: PS50C7000 model.
I am currently using your calibrated settings and from reading your review I understand you also use a PS3.
Please excuse my ignorance, but would you be able to help confirm the correct output settings for my PS3?
I have it connected directly via HDMI and use it for both Blu-rays and gaming.
I am currently unsure which settings are best to use:
- BD / DVD Video Output Format (HDMI)
Automatic
RGB
Y Pb / Cb Pr / Cr
- BD 1080p 24 Hz Output (HDMI)
Automatic
Off
On
- 50 Hz Video Output
Automatic
50 Hz
- RGB Full Range (HDMI)
Limited
Full
- Y Pb / Cb Pr / Cr Super-White (HDMI)
Off
On
- Deep Color/Colour Output (HDMI)
Automatic
Off
In addition, are you going to get a ‘donate’ option added to your website so that people like myself can make a contribution to say thank you for your time and expertise?
P.S.
I may be pushing my luck here! However, are you going to post your calibrated 3D settings – when 3D enabled Blu-rays (such as Avatar) are more readily
available?
Many thanks in advance.
Sam
about 1 year ago
Hi Sam…
I’ll make a post about the correct PS3 settings soon as I’m getting some questions about it. But generally you should always have it like this (any other settings are “wrong”):
PS3:
Output format: YCbCr.
Super white: on (allows for Whiter than white when using YcbCr).
RGB range: Limited
24p: automatic
TV:
HDMI black level: Low
Deep Colour just allows for up to 36 bit colour, but most (if not all) source material is in 24bit, so just leave it at automatic (or off – doesn’t matter).
Ohh.. and I’ve put up a “donate”-button
about 1 year ago
About the calibrated 3D settings – sorry, not done that yet. The glasses make the colours a little more yellow, so I believe for now just running it at “standard” is ok.
When I get the time I’ll try to see if I can get my colourimeter to measure “through” the 3D glasses.
about 1 year ago
Hi Dennis,
Thank you for the reply.
I will definitely check through my PS3 settings when I get home and now you have one added I’ll be sure to use your donate button!
I Look forward to reading the upcoming post you mentioned regarding the PS3 settings and hopefully your calibrated 3D settings as well
Sam.
about 1 year ago
Hi,
I recently bought this tv (“50), and really dissapointed with the 3D.
The image seems to not be “a top of each other” Especially when there’s a lot of fast movement and so on…
Any settings that will help this get better?
about 1 year ago
Same ghosting-problems with 3D here. Seems the right and left images leave residues in each other. Anybody else having the same experience?
ps: thnx for the published settings though, they do a great job in normal 2D HD :
about 1 year ago
Very little ghosting here. It’s the best 3D screen i’ve seen so far. I’ve just saw “Tron: Legacy 3D” the other day and the cinema screen had a lot more crosstalk than the Samsung. Never going to the movies again… Better quality at home. However I discover (at the movies) that if I put on 2 pairs of 3D glasses on top of each other the crosstalk was all gone (very strange) – and even more ridiculously looking.
However – if you have crosstalk you might want to try to adjust some of the 3D settings. Find a 3D scene with a lot of contrast, pause the image and adjust the settings so there is as little crosstalk as possible.
about 1 year ago
Hi Denis
is it possible to give us best setting for thé Xbox 360 ?
Thanks
about 1 year ago
They would probably be the exact same. I haven’t really used my Xbox much (I’m a PS3 guy), but the settings should be the same (provided that the Xbox is set up to output a “video levels” hdmi signal). However I can’t really calibrate it as it doesn’t have a BD drive (and the calibration DVDs are PAL/NTSC which are not the exact same colour space as HD).
about 1 year ago
Hi guys…. re crosstalk, do you have motion judder turned off? I think BD-Wise turned mine on automatically the other day (sure i had BD-Wise turned off) and the crosstalk was terrible….
about 1 year ago
Does anyone find problems trying to see sky hd in football matches with cell light at 0 or very low ? the field is a very hard test cos its many different colors ,that sometimes are not displayed in the right way with many flikers . the poblem seems not so important with gamma at 0 but i have to increase brightness . i am very confused cos on net there are many different setting about this tv…. hoping to find here the right one . Happy new here to all ones !!!
about 1 year ago
Well… You shouldn’t have Cell Light at 0. Keep it around 16-18.
about 1 year ago
ops sorry …i have the ps50c7700 ,just wanna know if the setting are good for tv, sky ,blu ray and multimedia hdd as my tvix m-6500 or each input needs to be calibrated . thanks
about 1 year ago
Each input would normally have to be calibrated individually. However this is not always possible, so most calibrations are done for the primary output device (typically a Bluray- or DVD player) and copied to the other inputs. If you only use HDMI inputs the difference will typically be smaller.
Many of us use an AV-receiver so we use only one HDMI input on the screen.
about 1 year ago
firmware 3005.1 ……it is necessary to recalibrate after upgrade ? sure black prolblems with 50 hz are still there .
about 1 year ago
I haven’t updated yet (everything is working fine, so why bother unless it really makes a big difference). For all earlier updates no changes to settings was required, so for this one I doubt it.
about 1 year ago
thanks for replay…. i know the better cell light is 17 but i am happy to see that even with the lowest setting in a dark room is possible to see a football match cos the screen is enought bright .specially now i used it not more than 100 hours . just wanna understand the reason of the problem i saw …maybe just a lower broadcasting band sometimes makes poblems with cell light very low . sure if i see a movie in 2,35:1 better to keep cell light higher cos black at 50 hz it is really very disappointing.
about 1 year ago
You shouldn’t really touch the cell light. Just leave it at 16-17 – this will keep the gamma correct (or it will turn into an S-curve). The option doesn’t really control anything useful (it’s somewhat the same as contrast – it doesn’t affect black level only the maximum achievable brightness). The only reason for it being in the menu is because on LCD’s the option is used for backlight level.
about 1 year ago
Hi Dennis, I just had a quick question. What is the difference between using these settings on Movie mode or Cal-Night mode. Does it matter as long as the settings are the same?
Thanks in advance.
about 1 year ago
The european versions doesn’t have Cal-Day / Cal-Night modes. But as far as I know the settings I’ve listed should be used for Cal-Night mode (they are for a light controlled dark room).
about 1 year ago
Hi Dennis
I just got a PS50C7000 for Christmas and the TV is great but unfortunately the movies often have the fake soap opera look about them. It came with firmware ver 1016. I looked online and made calibration adjustments but some movies still looks horrible. I upgraded to recommended 3005.1 firmware and now picture looks blurry whereas it used to look very sharp. Any ideas on best calibration for 3005.1 or how to go back to a a better firmware version and if so which version would you reccommend. many thanks
about 1 year ago
Hi mate. What do You have film mode on? Off, auto 1 or auto 2?